Anycubic silk pla settings reddit. It may be trickier to print.
● Anycubic silk pla settings reddit changing extrusion to 1. Across the many different brands of Silk PLA filament that I print a lot of gears with silk PLA using the generic PLA profile. In this tutorial, we will introduce what is Silk PLA and how to use it, and Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. 15 Everything about the Anycubic Silk PLA is kind of a mixed bag for me, regardless of supplier. stock Ender 3v2, silk PLA 200/60 temps 4. ItsPapaJim • What settings did you use? I can’t find the right temps Reply reply On my Anycubic Mega x with . Retraction: 0. Does anyone have pics of 24K subscribers in the anycubic community. 2mm Not sure if you ever found it, but to change AnycubicSlicer-1. now i ordered Eryone's metallic silk rainbow pla filament to print cool look pieces. I have an ender 3 pro. In this guide, we will explore the temperature parameters of PLA filament, and how to set and adjust the best PLA printing temperature. Both failed. 3mm layers is unnecessary. 5 or 0. I printed to some silk pla on my first go and it came out with only minor imperfections, I have dialed in the settings for the silk after numerous prints since then. If you are new to reddit, please read the guidelines on reddiquette, self promotion, Your print is odd since the default settings are This was my first print attempt with the new SUNLU Rainbow Silk PLA+ from Amazon. Theres no way this is the limit, and given I do heaps of prototypes, quality better than 0. Have been using Isanmate wood pla+ and up until yesterday was printing great. While technically correct, fundamentally flawed. Controversial. 230c, 300mm/s speed, 0. works like a charm for me Get app Get the Reddit app Log In Log in to Reddit. 041s. If the chamber temps get too high your cooling fan cannot stop heat creep. New. I'm using the overture easy pla digital blue. It is producing some OK prints, but I still think the settings need some more work. it is printing beautifully, and is approximately 30% heavier than the active foaming LW PLA I buy planes from Eclipson, Silk PLA upvote The community of r/FixMyPrint will help you fix your 3D printer settings for the most optimal prints. If you want ultra fine detail, I would slow it down a little, the same as you would with standard PLA. Ill-Relation-5322 • I would also be interested, as in the Anycubic slicer in the Nozzle Retraction Settings Additional settings or relevant information is always encouraged. everything prints nice. Scroll down until you see the Options for support material and so a few weeks back i finally fine tuned my printer to almost perfection. 4mm Layer Height: 0. Printer also sounds like it will shake itself to pieces :) How to solve this: Increase ironing temperature to allow the PLA to melt better and allow a smoother passage of the print head and a smoother bow wave. Hello all. why does my Anycubic Vyper create these ugly lines in my print? help! I'm using Inland Silk PLA filament but I've noticed it with other filaments as well Share Add a Comment. It maybe gets some experimental ways to really screw things up. Never tried overture. thanks ahead of time! Share Add a Comment. Expand user menu Open i need so much so that even pliers cant help me. 16 layer it fails. Anyway, Printing Silk, I had very good success with 200 Degrees, bed temp of 45 to 50 (sometimes 65 for first layer for adhesion) on Qidi and Bambu Labs printers. Log In / Sign Up; Advertise on Reddit; Shop Collectible Hi, I have a very strange Problem with a spool of Anycubic PLA black. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Anycubic i3 Mega - Can’t print small objects? What temperature do you print polymaker play+ at I've been doing 60 for the bed 220 for the hot end and I've been getting some warping any input Looks like silk PLA. Link to comment here. comments. Scrub your cold plate with hot water dishwashing liquid right before the print and dry it with paper towel to avoid fingerprints or contamination. 6mm nozzles are recommended but there are also a bunch of posts by people who did it with 0. Printing on an Anycubic i3 pro. 15 Bottom 0. The first like 20 layers seem fine and after those it just stops extruding, the gears are still moving so im guessing that it gets clogged. Any settings or suggestions people have would be great! Going to be trying to print Silk PLA for the first time (first time on my P1S and first time on any 3D printer) this afternoon and was hoping to get some tips and tricks from any veteran Silk printers out there? I use Orcaslicer so will obviously be doing all the calibrations such as temp towers etc. Log In / Sign Up; settings than the PLA+ profile in Ankermake slicer or should those settings basically still work when printing silk PLA? Silk PLA I am using: eSUN Silk Magic Filament) Anycubic Photon Mono X settings 6K I want to share don’t know if i can even get it any better than this, i’ve done so many tests at this point & am ready to give up. Members Online. I'm having trouble with some Overture Matte White PLA. 5 PLA #F2B2CA Overture Matte Pink TD 3 PLA ##F2061D Overture Silk Red TD 3 PLA ##AA361F Paramount Volcano Orange Red TD 3 PLA #F8B557 Overture Matte Orange TD 2. Im running a Anycubic Kobra with a modded mcu for running klipper on it. Printed them with a 0. Marble PLA can be a bit "funky" with ingredients in it that make it different to normal PLA/PLA+. Should have screenshotted the settings, but didn't. It came with five spools of PLA high speed filament. Reply reply Anything to do with Anycubic 3d printers. Is not really an adhesion improvement. You can easily see it in action by extruding into thin air - most PLAs will just produce long strings, while silks will tend to form into thicker blobs. I recently bought a Kobra 2 Max from Anycubic and have been testing out PLA and High Speed PLA(PLA-HS). All of which I had seperate and different profiles for on my Anycubic printers. My print bed is bad right now and I am waiting for the replacement from Anycubic. Hi guys, idk if this is really meant for the anycubic subreddit but im using an anycubic Kobra so that is that. Fixed layer height, . Share Sort by: Best. Anycubic Silk PLA typically prints at around 200°C and is suitable for most 3D printers. I think the main thing that's helped prints is just setting the overlap. Old. A place where Anycubic 3D printer users communicate Expand user menu Open settings menu. My most prefered brands are Hatchbox white ABS, Geetech gold silk, Hatchbox black PLA, Overture PETG. A couple of them needed higher temps (230 rather than 220), but that's it. Understanding the use of PLA and setting the right temperature is a crucial step, which will affect the success rate and print quality of FDM 3D printing. Like tightening the Belts, vibration compensation, changing parameters, I haven’t found that many helpful videos on how to to fix this issue, so any help is appreciated. Q&A. I don't think anycubic sell those spring bits as spares yet either Just asking to see if it's an issue with my printer settings, or with the PLA brand. 28 mm layers 230C 60C Bed 60mm Insane how many people get under extrusion on enders a post about it on reddit and like 90% of the time it's a cracked or loose extruder. At Try using the settings in this link, it helps quite a bit. cookiecad. 6. My idea is to have a detailed resource that includes information on a wide range of filaments and their optimal printing settings, specifically for I have printed with PLA, PLA+, Silk PLA, PETG and ABS so far. I ordered silver, gold, and blue yesterday in the shiny silk pla and am super excited to see how those prints come out. Edit: u/MichaelPlatypus had suggestions that worked for me. 4kg and just wondering if AnyCubic PLA is any good compared to overture ? Share Add a Help with Anycubic Silk PLA+ Silver on Kobra Neo Hi all, been enjoying getting into 3D printing thanks to Amazon vouchers at Xmas :) I bought 2x rolls of PLA with the machine 1 being an eSUN blue gerneric & the other as above in the title. I have 2 questions: Is there a big difference between brands of filament? I do basic home use printing and like the ELEGOO price point, as well as the recyclable spools. Having a weird issue with my Anycubic Vyper and Kobra Max that's causing my silk PLA to twist and clog in the hotend. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. The results are incredible. Silk PLA arriving today. r/ender3. Silk just turn off the fan and slow down the speed to 45mm/s (an anycubic kobra) I got Amolen's multicolor GITD PLA filament and for the life of me I can't get a clean print out. Every PLA ive tried works just fine, besides silk PLA (from Pulox). 2 wall thickness. I have used the same BL Generic PLA profile for all of them. Sort by: I love it! Reply reply More replies. But I like the settings layout where you're not poking about with an expanding tree in the corner of the screen which is a nightmare trying to look for a setting by description. 5 PLA #FFCC80 Hatchbox Matte Orange TD 3 PLA #F9EC78 Overture Matte Yellow TD 3. In my experience, all silk PLAs are more brittle and have very poor layer adhesion. Let me tell you again, I have had nothing but beautiful prints. 5 PLA #25874C Overture Settings that ended up working for me: 0. the biggest issues is buildup. Unofficial, Have you printed a temp tower yet? Or a retraction tower. 0 to Organic supports: Click the More Settings button on the right side (below where you select Infill Density) . The heat melts it in to adhere better to the bed AND the layers. Other settings What settings have you found most success with? So far I'm using the included PLA with: 200-205 C 40 mm/s retraction speed 2. I've been back and forth with the retraction settings and lowering the speed and it Hi folks, I’m new here, got my Kobra 2 Pro just a couple of days ago. I printed the pieces for the chess board, the squares, in the same filament without issues other than cranking down the flowrate. My print quality started to diminish and after one day of calibrating my printer and a lot of benches I changed my filament from anycubic to gembird (a cheap one). Edit - you specifically mention Overture, I've printed both their regular PLA and the dregs of a spool of their matte PLA without issue at 300mm/s. I've done some research online and found a few mentions of potential nozzle The community of r/FixMyPrint will help you fix your 3D printer settings for the most optimal prints. Hey guys I’ve recently started filament printing (been using mono 4K resin printer for minis) and wanted to get some advice on how to dial this thing in. I'm having some problems with stringing, layer issues, and a few spots that aren't printing well. Or Edit: Super slicer support settings for PLA, 45 degree overhang threshold Z-offset: Type- From Filament Top- 0. I only use Geeetech PLA and Silk PLA. Looking on the webpage, it gives the following, but I still have 1st layer defects. Members Online • Speedfreak99. I knew there was going to be an issue right away with adhesion as my tree supports were failing but I let it run overnight. Skip to main content. It also will swell up once leaving the nozzle so be aware of warping and over extrusion. All the same settings as normal pla. Ive tired so many different speed (40-80 mm/s) and retraction settings (0. I have yet to find a PLA brand that won't print at that speed. 4mm too, without clogs because they were using the right settings, which I'm currently trying to find. Skip to and my rainbow silk pla has the worst seam lines Do you think your Those profile worked great for me, but I can't guarantee the same results. This is not the z seam, that is located on the corner. I'm using an anycubic i3 mega, with a . Or check it out in the app stores Been using overture PLA in my last 4. I bought it new from Amazon about a week ago. I leave the door open for PLA, closed for everything else. After that successful print I attempted to do another print (maybe a day in between). If it's not, what fan settings are you using? Reply reply I’m an Esun fanboy but just recently started printing with Jayo Silk PLA and it works great. Or check it out in the app stores Im using some Elegoo PLA right now and after a few failures this is what im printing at: Initial bed temp eSun Wood PLA, what settings to use? 3. 200c, 60c stock bed I use TTYT3D for all shiny/ metallic prints. Especially head, speed and flow rate. I'm really new to this Been attempting to get a better top layer to some silk PLA, but to no avail. Elevate your 3D printing with this premium silk filament, available in different amounts to suit your project needs. Share Reddit's home for anything and everything related to the NBA 2K series. The pyramid is as as good as the one printed with Polylite PLA Pro, not bad for a silk filament at all! Sunlu silver silk PLA prints very well, although Sunlu regular plain PLA has sometimes been second tier stuff. 5 PLA #41CB87 DO3D Silk Green TD 2. Hey all! I’ve had my machine for about 5 months, I started printing silk pla at the basic pla settings and it was going great and then I had an issue with ghosting and other weird issues , so I switched to the silk pla setting and still have had nothing but issues, would love to I was wondering if there was a site that collects filament settings for the i3 MK3S+. I didn’t recalibrate or print any benchmarks as I wanted to try it running my old settings for the eSun PLA+ rolls that I have. Anycubic Mega S + Enotepad PLA Wood (20% Fiber) Hey everyone! I need some help to figure out what's wrong while trying to print using a Wood PLA filament with my Anycubic Mega S. I'm using Anycubic Silk, and I was just double checking to see if anyone has had decent success with it. For silk, I recommend slower The retraction settings are also based on my Klipper pressure advance settings at 0. Just wondering if anyone has taken the time to nut down the best setting for the printer, or any adjustment that i need to loom at to get perfect prints. After rigorous testing of my model and setting with my regular PLA filament, I felt ready to attempt the final print which I wanted in silk PLA Printer - Anycubic Kobra Neo Slicer - Cura 5. I feel like I got the PLA down but I’m having issues getting the PLA-HS down. 205 hotend 60 bed with basic Cura PLA settings on my cr-10s. 4 nozzle, same settings: 195C, retract 1mm. Welcome to I have a Question about using Sunlu PLA PLUS on the Bambu X1C and AMS. Interested in peoples experiences with Ender 5+ "baseline" settings (my case Cura, 0. Hi, so I just purchased a roll of eSun Silver Silk PLA. The Blue (with slightly tweaked settings) comes out much nicer when side by side, sharper details, less stringing and all round a nicer print; I think I'm on the right path to getting nicer prints all round. 4mm Nozzle, domestic print environment, auto level, Energy saving off, print speed 100 on printer) PLA: Printing Temperature: 200 °C Bed Temperature: 60 °C Speed: 80 mm/s Travel Speed: 200mm/s Wall Speed 40 mm/s Layer height: 0. I’m using overture silk pla at 200 degrees and bed at 60 degrees. zits & blobs, even in vase mode. com The printing temperature is generally 180-230 °C. What are the best settings for PLA + thanks . Just DM me if you have questions or would like me to share all of my setting for each filament, PLA, Silk PLA, PETG and ABS. Well, kinda defeats the purpose of the silk PLA It's the z seam indeed. Thanks for the information! Solutech blue has been the There is a balance that needs to be found between printing speed and hot end temperature for silk filaments, and the easiest way to find it is to look at the external layer uniformity of the I have a Kobra 2 and have at this point used ELEGOO PLA filament to print. The first thing to On most 3D printers, like the Ender 3 or the Anycubic Kobra, 60–80 mm/s is a good printing speed for PLA. Hello, I've been printing on and off for a few months, with an i3 Mega S, so what I guess is a decent but entry-level PLA printer. Try using 20C higher (or upto your filament's max rated temp), and a lot slower, like 30-60 mm/s. All of my specs like print settings are shown in the pictures included in this post along with a picture of a recent stringing test done with the same settings as the pineapple example. It needs a higher temp and slower speed to print properly. I use regular materials (not too cheap, not too expensive) and so far everything went good. 1 was a big help but, Extrusion width: Infill & solid infill 0. I needed translucent ivory, I got FilaCube (PLA+). Open comment sort I've just been tweaking the generic PLA profile and saving it. I can typically print ABS, PLA, and PETG fine at 300mm/s but even printing the silk at 40mm/s with the darkwing dad settings and a . I had to play around with the settings a lot, and it was a balance between amount of PLA, structural stability, The anycubic default is way to fast for big prints (IMHO). I currently use Hatchbox Pla which is the best no issues so far. It contains TPU to give it the silk sheen, which needs significantly higher temperatures. . New comments cannot be posted. I have to say that I was fairly satisfied with the print quality I was getting then. 6 nozzle. I haven't really tried to push speed because the manufacturers typically recommend no faster than 60mm/s. Anything to do with Anycubic 3d printers. Im using an Anycubic Kobra and curaslicer, i marked the layers in I'm used to cura now and that was rough to learn alr bc of how new I am, and I've finally found settings to not make silk pla prints suck On the downwards resonation, it collects too much PLA in the bow wave, which it then deposits on the next upward swing. Dont print PLA in an enclosure. In Prusaslicer Seam Settings can be found at "Layers and Perimeters > Advanced > Seam Position" where "Nearest" will also try to place the Seam in a Corner. What brand PLA and what settings? I've got a pile of silk PLA I haven't been able to dial in. 1mm Infill: 10% Print temp: 205º Bed temp: 80º Print speed: 40 mm/s (walls @ 20mm/s) Combing: Not in Skin Experimental - Tree Supports: Yes (Other Tree Support settings left at default) The silk filament that I use never gave me any problems. 75mm Silk PLA Filament Package offering various quantity options. I've got good prints with silk, but be aware that it might take some time changing settings to get it running reliably. Silk PLA is hygroscopic and will suck moisture out of the air like crazy. I needed a silk white, I got Tronxy (never again, white silk PLA is hard to work with). Currently best I can seem to get is: Bed: 60 First layer: 220 Maybe try Anycubic PLA which should come with the NEO Adjust retraction Speed to a distance of between 0. 0. If it's the regular PLA, it should work with the Bambu PLA setting. 27mm Extruder 210C, platform 50C Base print speed 60mm/s, travel 80mm/s First layer max speed 5mm/s, first layer ma travel 40/mms Retraction length I have an anycubic i3 mega s. I've always had trouble with Silk PLA (from any manufacturer that I've tried), and struggled to find settings that would produce shiny prints that don't have significant stringing or layer adhesion issues. When it comes to settings: Generic PLA Silk with a Factor K of . So after slicing models with my Ender 3 V 3(You know, the ones that are supposed to do everything for you as far as cal goes) when laying down a first layer it almost looks as though the nozzel is too close causing ugly blobs and such. Really double check the filament mabufacturers recommended settings to yours. 7 to up to 2mm Tighten all belts and axis. 3 nozzle. Help Needed with Silk PLA. I am using an ender 3 pro with TTYT3D color-changing silk PLA and my slicer is SuperSlicer. It prints perfect every time on m Anycubic Kobra. I know that 0. For more Information you can simply search "Z-Seam Settings" online and you will find many helpful posts. The default settings don't turn out very good for me. 6 prints at . But both prints do have little holes in them from under extrusion. Must have accidently changed setting in Cura, so thanks for posting this. The test prints with the sample filament provided with the ender 3 v2 all turned out fine but now every print fails on the first layer with the only change now being the It either sticks to the bed and warps, or just doesn't adhere. Stringing will be worse and so is layer adhesion, so it'll be a bit brittle. Was wondering if there is a consensus on best settings for PLA on this printer Ender 3 S1 Pro - Silk PLA Settings upvote Reddit's Loudest and Most In-Tune Community of Bassists Electric, acoustic, upright, and otherwise. 24K subscribers in the anycubic community. The stock settings work ok, but there was always spacing between lines, especially on outside layers. My retraction settings are currently 6mm @ 30 mm/s (direct drive). Make sure your retraction settings arent ASTRONOMICALLY high. With its metallic luster and smooth surface, Silk PLA can enhance the beauty of 3D prints. And all of them have printed perfect! I Anything to do with Anycubic 3d printers. I cannot print with the bed heated. Is there software to adjust printer settings for better prints? Thanks all! Get the Reddit app Scan this (my first 3D printer). This feature specifically does magic with silk filament for me. I did some searches online and really didn't find much, especially in the recent past. I could probably go faster with the settings. After opening it up, I put it in my Ender 3 and printed a 44hour print with the standard PLA parameters in Cura4. Hey y’all, I’ve been thinking of clear PLA, PLA+, PLA matte and PLA silk and I’ve gotta know, do all of these work with the A1? From what I’ve heard most PLA types work with the A1, not sure what types though. is that to speed up the print or does it helps everything? Im running a Anycubic Kobra with a modded mcu for running klipper on it. if you use PETG acceleration is not good keep the speed at 100% and you have to try different temperatures for stringing Explore Anycubic's 1. I can't seem to get rid of stringing I'm getting on all of my pieces I'm trying to print. Asking for help with AnyCubic Photo Mono 4K Resin Printer Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Can I use Silk PLA with this machine? If so, is there anything I need to know? Thank you for any help! Expand user menu Open settings menu. I have used the Generic PLA for 5 different brands so far. I have silk PLA that I run through the AMS. 4mm hardened steel nozzle and I've tried temp ranges 195-235, bed ranges 55-65, retraction speeds 30mm/s, 40, 60, lowering flow to 80 and no matter what I'm getting burnt blobs during the print, I've tried emailing Amolen to see if they have recommended settings (what i Hi everyone! I'm reaching out to see if anyone knows about a comprehensive reference sheet for filament settings with Bambu Lab printers. I have not yet tested PLA+. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns. Also you It's a huge step above the . Also prusa mk3 but I have it aswell on my anycubic. Both silk filaments needed a I want to share my experience with the silk gold pla plus from anycubic for my anycubic kobra. Especially noticable on round/cylindrical objects Standard PLA setting Nozzle 220 Bed 60 24K subscribers in the anycubic community. Below, you can find the Silk PLA settings that we recommend using with the Ender 3, which are the values that we have arrived at through our testing: Nozzle (Print) Temperature – 200 degrees Celsius; Bed Temperature Printing with bambulabs branded pla silk. Log In / Sign Up; Advertise on Reddit; Shop Collectible Avatars; Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. I know silk PLA is a pain to print with but does anyone have a shot in the dark as to why it comes out perfectly and Prusaslicer has some default profiles for this printer and I changed exactly zero settings and had a perfect first print. Add your thoughts and get the conversation going. Sort by The community of r/FixMyPrint will help you fix your 3D printer settings for the most optimal prints. Ender clogged, and the model on the SV06 is really Every PLA ive tried works just fine, besides silk PLA. 16 mm I just used the PLA settings but slow the speed down. When I first started 3D printing, I didn't know that my eSun PLA+ had a temperature range that was higher than normal PLA, so all I did was follow this profile I found on youtube and printed at 195. Different filaments and settings might work differently. Whatever additive it is that gives the "silk" property just makes them behave quite differently when it comes to "setting" after extrusion. 0 settings (ask me for any others you're interested in) Layer height: 0. The same thing happened to me with anycubic's own brand of silk PLA - I thought I just had bad luck. Good evening all. i figure i had to change a couple of settings so that's what i'm currently doing. Anything to do with Anycubic 3d Does anyone know good settings for tricolor silk PLA? I use cura as my slicer Share Add yellyinbelly • I use it with regular PLA settings, and don´´t see any reason why it should need special settings. Silk PLA and tuning. 99ea and I did . What kind of problems were you having? If you weren't able to use the spool email us and we'll replace it. How to stop scarring shown in pic. With my unkempt bed, I do a small brim and hotter bed. I don't think bridging is usually a problem with silk, but your top layers should be supported by the infill. I'm using the 0. Can’t print silk on standard PLA settings. It just made the parts solid horizontally. Below are my current settings based on the test I’ve currently ran. Unofficial, Amazon Basic Silk Pla on Kobra Go. So far so good, but I honestly dont know what is bad or good etc haha. Edit: Changed retraction speed to 60 mm/s and that eliminated the stringiness almost entirely. Obviously, the noticeable lines and the uneven sheen are what I'm hoping to remedy. Yes I know it depends on the file, Or even as low as 40mm/s outer wall speed for maximum shininess of silk filament. Members Online I can't figure out the source of this banding and I've tried everything I can Can I use Silk PLA with this machine? If so, is there anything I need to know? Thank you for any help! Nobody's responded to this post yet. The main difference is that silk isn't as strong as standard pla, if it's clogging I'd try raising the temperature and not the speed, there's a fine balance between speed and temperature, and generally the faster the speed the more temperature I have seen mention that the extrusion settings may be off, print speed, temp. My current settings: Nozzle Temp: 200 Degrees Celsius This is with mostly stock settings creality print slicer. Advertise on Reddit; Shop Collectible Avatars; Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. 4. Open menu Open Anycubic PLA filament Share Best temperature will of course depend on your machine and settings so prudent to test on your individual setup to As for settings, I can get really good results with some PLA with the following-but again, you'll have to adjust based on the specific filament. 1mm layer height. 038. I’d like to see if there are some common settings people are using. Unofficial, not affiliated with Anycubic. But with the PLA Plus it prints like the picture below. No mods. Using Ender 3v2 and Sovol sv06 to print same model with diffrent filament. ADMIN MOD Polymaker pla pro settings help Advice Hey everyone, Having a hard time getting the settings right for this filament. I've pushed it to 100mm/s a few times but noticed stretch marks in my lines. Both filaments have also printed well using a Copperhead hot end on one of the Creality machines. 05mm cheap PLA\PLA+ though which looks like a washboard texture wise no matter what setting you use. Fractal Pyramid using color changing silk PLA on my Anycubic Mega Pro. What do I need to adjust? Help The direct drive should keep you printing close either way in terms of other settings but the temperature may vary Anything to do with Anycubic 3d printers. Bed temp at 60 has kept away all curling and warping off the bed. 75mm PLA filament: temperature: first layer - 220°C nozzle, 80°C bed (428 °F / 176 °F) second layer and beyond - 200°C nozzle, 60°C bed (392 °F / 140 °F) I use the standard anycubic grey pla. Default settings an imported prusaSlicer profiles are safe. I don’t have to change it throughout the print, just keep it there the entire time. See pictures below, with the settings as follows: Red PLA (came with the Printer) Line Width: 0. I am looking for some baseline Temp settings for the Nozzle and Textured PEI Plate. Often times, especially with silk type PLA's, people will say this is a "clog". That battery dispenser you made looks super good. r/AnycubicVyper A chip A close button A chip A close button I print Eryone Silk at 220C-225C. My main issue right now is stringing. Also, flashing Marlin software does wonders I've heard. I use the Anycubic Silk-PLA and the normal PLA. When I switch to normal pla or a different brand these settings will likely have to be adjusted, which I'll Silk has a tendency to grind in my extruder if my retraction is too aggressive, and it "swells" sort of after extrusion. 3mm. Locked post. I’ve attached some The only change from my default settings for PLA on a RatRig VMinion was to increase the extrusion multiplier by 2%. I know that silk filament makes all the imperfections more visible but something here isn't right. 0 Filament - Polymaker PLA+ Nozzle temp - 195C Anything to do with Anycubic 3d printers. The chess pieces I tried to print with 0. I managed to rescue mine seemingly without much permanent damage, yours looks worse than mine though. Best support settings for Mega S (PLA)? Locked post. I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. But I also lack the time to really tune these settings, and I am hoping someone else has, or at least, somewhere we can share what progress we have made. Get the Reddit app Scan this PLA Silk settings? K2 Plus/Pro . Pretty well left all other settings default, including print speed. It is much less strong and has poorer layer adhesion than regular PLA or PLA+, which I print at 200C. I also save each print project A place where Anycubic 3D printer I'm trying to useyour settings for a jayo pla meta filasment I got, since they are the same brand and probably the same filament. Welp, why is my 3d If it's silk, try using the Bambu silk setting. r/arduino. Best. I used to use gluesticks but ever since I got my cr touch, I have been able to use my heated textured glass bed perfectly fine for every other pla brand. They work, but the sharp points on the gear teeth are rounded over compared to normal PLA. Stranger still that their "Polylite Silk" PLA runs great with the same settings and extruder tightness on my machine You don’t need a filament dryer but your filament does need to be dry. These are based on a Wham Bam PEX build plate and the brass nozzle and heater block that comes with the BIQU H2 direct drive mounted on a modified Ender 5 Plus: Brand: Clas Ohlson Universal PLA: Hot end: 205c. The outcome however, is that anycubic have incorrectly defined the thermocouple in their firmware, so the temps are about 30° Hey everyone, I'm new to 3d printers, but as my title says, I just bought a kobra max using anycubic pla white. Can anyone please share some of their Silk PLA settings for Cura? I am having a tough time with it. r/3Dprinting A chip A close button. I did and I am having zero issues with PLA, Silk PLA, These are the settings that vamp is suggesting which are from Zombie's Profile: {"global_quality": " I just got a 3d printer and have started to use anycubic pla but it won't stick to the bed. Or Anycubic Kobra Neo Prusa Slicer Overture Matte PLA Bed 60 Nozzle 195 Print Speed 30mm/s Bambu PLA temp settings? upvote r/ender3. I use a Dremel Digilab 3D45 printer. I have it in an enclosure. You could also try simply adjusting your slicer to Sunlu pla+ settings First time ever using Sunlu PLA+ and I am not getting good quality even though a ton of people are suggesting it. Beware! A bunch of hacks with terrible prints will disagree with me! Just received my Kobra 2 Pro - First Printer. What settings do I need to change in the Anycubic slicer to take Open comment sort options. I have tried and tried but was unable to remove it. I’m experiencing bridging issues along with excessive stringing. Expand user menu Open settings menu. Anyway usually there is an option to adjust the final layer temperature. Oh I bet copper one is awesome. I have my final layer temps for my silk print 5 degrees cooler and it stops the string whisker that tends to form at the top of silk prints. Question I was wondering what yall are running for PLA Silk. (I'm using the CURA basic settings) Recently I bought the eSun PLA Matte and I can't even Silk PLA has added chemicals that change the properties. 3. . kobra max, anycubic pla filament for gray, silk pla i still need to tweak a little on acceleration & temp. With newer 3D printers, like the Creality K1 and Prusa MK4 , you can print at speeds of up to 300–500 mm/s. I did the slicing in Cura and transferred the gcode to the printer via I just got some PLA + from Numakers as they had a special buy 10 at 13. I have not done much in the way of messing with retraction settings but if anyone has a setting recommendation I’m all ears Does anyone have any ideas on the settings needed on cura? I am currently printing with this filament on a AnyCubic Kobra 2 . Silks tend to be a bit elastic, so they'll do that. You can improve layer adhesion by printing at higher temperatures, but increasing the My problem Is that all of my prints layer shift and I already tried the things suggested on the Anycubic Website. 1. PLA #F52B1F Overture Red TD 2. 8, which went absolutely flawless. You can also join our discord, we have tons of x1c users in there. Bed: 52c. I might add that I have the printer in a 2' cubed enclosure that I built 2 years ago for my Mega Zero. Get app Get the Reddit app Log In Log in to Reddit. Select Support Material from the menu on the left of the window that pops up (Also make sure you are in Advanced Mode at the top left) . With Anycubic CC3D silk PLA is a good option for shiny prints. 10% infill. Silk PLA filament is a unique FDM printing material. I'm looking at this Anycubic spool as I've always used their standard PLA and never had any issues with it. 8 mm retraction distance Always use a raft Those settings make some pretty good prints, but I'm still finding it stringy. Below are the specific product parameters and recommended print settings for Anycubic Silk PLA filament. Sunlu and Anycubic I was given Giantarm Silk copper pla for christmas, The community of r/FixMyPrint will help you fix your 3D printer settings for the most optimal Even when limiting retractions to 10 per 7mm, the filament is ground away by 20 minutes in. When the nozzle moves to a new layer or across the print, it deposits a drip of filament that ends up building up as it goes on. 5 - 6 mm), ive also tried temps ranging from 190-220 but nothing seems to work. I did increase the walls to 4 and top walls (skin) to 4 too. 2mm layer height. And all of them have done quite well. I've made several adjustments but still don't like the results. Nozzle (Print) Temperature – 215 to 235 degrees Celsius Geeetech is the bomb for me. As the variants of a filament, such as PLA+ and silk PLA, have distinct material compositions (which is why we call them variants), it’s only natural for them to require a specific set of configurations that do not precisely match what you would use for standard PLA. 18mm, first layer . I struggle getting anything delicate with gaps like that to print with silk pla. Only been printing for a year or two now and only now experiencing this issue. Most of the pla+ I've used (inland) prints at Was hoping for some advice on settings for printing Flexible PLA+. Your filament probably needs to be dried. 6 nozzle I was using another of Cheps creality profiles for fast . 3 layer height as a base to start from. I print at 17-34mm/s, and have tried This is using the anycubic fast PLA. Make sure to really dial in your print settings like temperature, speed, retraction to get the smoothest finish possible. Share Add a Comment. I have increased and decreased temp, increased flow, reduced and increased speed and this is what I am getting. I am pulling out my hair trying to understand why my printer will do the first 5 layers printing Silk PLA and then it just stops extruding and won't push filament. Cura 4. I recently bought eryone gold and red silk pla and since then my prints suck. I tweaked the Temps, retraction distances, speeds, temp Normal PLA prints beautifully with no surface issues on my Ender 3 V2, but I can’t seem to stop those small pits or slices on silk PLA. Community resources, and extensive FAQ for players new and old. Just google the temperature and times recommended for your filament. Gonna try dropping the temperature to 190 I guess. I got an anycubic kobra neo for 130, and I can't complain about that Any chance you can share your settings? Having issues printing SUNLU PLA with my Qidi X Max 3. Amolen silk pla, recommends 200-220 temp. It may be trickier to print. I haven't tried I needed metallic bronze silk PLA, I got CC3D. I should clarify when using hyper pla the results are perfect so it's definitely something to do with the silk. 23K subscribers in the anycubic community. I needed a good reliable but reasonably priced black Silk PLA should print fine with the generic PLA profile. Pretty impressive. My x1c handles these prints really nice and I just have them set to generic silk pla for settings and it comes out so clean. So far I have tried many temperatures from 190-220 with no success, slowing down the print all the way down to 25mms, and reducing my retraction distance from 5mm to 3mm. I'll include a picture. You can use your oven or a food dehydrator if needed. 4mm nozzle. my first print with my pla settings were quite bad; some layer separation, uneven layers, the end points are all smudgy. Get the Reddit app Scan this I use these settings with standard 1. Silk pla should really be little to no difference to normal pla, I print all mine at 210 and 50-60 bed temp depending on temp of the room. I'm new to the 3D printing world and started with the standard AnyCubic PLA filaments and they were easy to use with little to no issues at all. Top. Start with the generic silk PLA profile and try really slowing it down, at least for the first layer. It's literally all in the settings. 2 and . Reply reply Germangunman • Wow what printer? That’s amazing! Reply reply Necroleet • Anycubic Mega-s Tmc2208 stepper , all fans Noctua Stock part cooler Reply reply Hey pla+ and pla silk user here! Nozzle temp of 235! Bed at 60. I would check it but I have a 14hr low poly snorlax printing on a mega pro and if I start cura on that computer it will kill the print. I have a roll of TPU that I am hesitant on trying. Discord. unkhdgeuumzdbfaueqvyloluzyuvhbrrgfojqsihdtkrylbmloi